Well Hello Everyone! Are you ready to get this next quilt started? I know I am. I opened up the Bali Pop and could not be more excited to get started. My dad is going to love this….and by love this I mean best daughter of the year award is on lock (side note: I win every year since I am his only daughter, but still…)
Today we will be going over layout and assembly of the rows for the Supernova quilt. I think this will go up super fast, but will dazzle anyone who isn’t a quilter (that’s exactly what we all like to do, isn’t it?) Let’s put my batting wall to work; what do you say?
Here’s what you will need for today:
- Bali Pop, Jelly Roll or 30 – 42 x 2 1/2” strips of Fabric
- Pinking Shears
- Space to layout
Don’t panic. We will be going over the cutting out of the triangles in a separate post. Today I want to focus on the block assembly and then we will tackle the white fabric and the remaining 10 strips.
Time to lay out all the strips. In order to get the 25 – 10 1/2” blocks we will need 6 sets of 5 rows. The great thing about this wall is that it is Baxter free and I can lay items out, step back and make adjustments. Here’s how I laid mine out (don’t you just love Vine? Don’t judge though, it was my first…ever.) I chose to keep the lighter fabrics of the Pacific Bali Pop out of the quilt at this time. They may or may not show up in the border fabrics, but we’ll see.
https://vine.co/v/hPUngPlDqm9 (okay so for some reason it won’t embed properly…I’ll keep trying 🙂 )
Now that your rows are laid out in the colors combinations that you want it is time to get assembling. This is super easy. Simply sew the strips together in bunches of 5. Line up the top when you stitch; the bottoms will be uneven, but we will deal with that in a bit.
Remember 1/4” seam and pink it when done if your fabric is already starting to fray. I’m using a navy blue thread on this one. After our Paradigm Shift quilt I am so happy to be able to just use one color again. The pattern says to make 10 1/2” x 10 1/2” squares so you will want to make sure that you set your seams appropriately. (This just means a good press; Flat and straight) Remember to press towards the darker color.
Measure from the straight edge making sure that your end product will be square. Use your rotary cutter and cut. You should get at least 4 squares per strip.
Now is the fun part. Let’s lay out how we want the ‘diamonds’ to be. Even without the borders this is looking fantastic! Since I used a Bali Pop that included some really light pieces I chose to amend the center block out of necessity. See by pulling all of those pieces I ended up a block short. Can you spot the difference? Okay I’m sure you can, but I think it gives it a little unique flair, don’t you? Any guesses what I did? You are correct, I sewed three of the strip remnants together to make one square.
Are you ready to cut out the borders/white on white pieces? Me too! Stay tuned, next Sunday they will be up and ready to go.
Step 2: Originally Published December 13, 2013 –
I hope you are having a great weekend! I’m not sure why they go so fast, but they do and before I know it I will be fighting traffic again. Are you ready to cut out the triangles? Well, without further ado let’s go!
One item I will mention before we get started is that you will see a different ‘white on white’ fabric used for the tutorial than the final product. I will explain this later. It is a lesson in adapting and not getting locked in to one idea.
From this point forward I will be referring to items as Piece A and Piece B and Piece C and Piece D. Piece C & D are the triangles which I did not list here because it is pretty clear which ones are the triangles and which are not.
Here is what you will have in the end:
- Piece A – (6) 5-3/8” Squares (cut in half diagonally for 12 small triangle pieces)
- Piece B – (12) 11-1/2” x 2-1/2” Strips
- Piece C – (12) 15-3/8” x 2-1/2” Strips
- Piece D – (2) 7-7/8” Squares (cut in half diagonally for 4 Corner Triangles)
Step 1 – Cutting out Piece B:
Do you remember when I said I pulled all the light-colored pieces from the Bali Pop? These pieces are now the middle of our border triangle and will create a white frame. The first thing you will want to do is to make sure these jelly rolls are true; meaning the ends are square.
Next, cut each of them to 11-1/2” lengthwise (not sure how else you would ). I did the first one solo and then started doubling up fabric as I went which sped up the process immensely.
Step 2 – Cutting out Piece C:
My white on white was cut off of the bolt per the 1 yard requirement in the pattern. You will want to press the fabric and cut it true before you begin. Don’t worry we won’t use the full yard. In, fact We might get away with 1/2-3/4 of a yard. Once true, cut the fabric in 2-1/2” strips. The fabric is 45” wide so 45/11.5 = 3.91… meaning that we can get almost 4 strips out of this one cut. That means we only have to cut 4 rows. Why not just 3 since 4*3= 12 and that’s what we need. Well as I mentioned we get almost 4 out of the strip so the final piece will be just shy of 11.5” and in quilting it must be exact.
Once you have cut your 4 rows of strips you can cut them into 15-3/8” pieces. I doubled mine up per below. My general rule is no more than 4-6 per cut when layering and you MUST have a sharp blade.
Step 3 – Cutting out Piece A & Piece D (Triangles):
Repeat the same method used for the 15-3/8” strips, but this time cut them into 5-3/8” squares. Make sure your end are true. You need 6 squares total.
(There is an angle on this shot that will cause it to not look true. Perhaps I need a helmet camera)
Now, cut out Piece D which are squares that are 7-7/8” x 7-7/8” using the same method as above. You only need 2 of these squares and since your fabric is folded over you only need to cut one time.
Step 4 – Creating the Triangles:
In order to get the triangles we need they have to be cut in half along the diagonal.
Step 5 – Cut Piece B & Piece C in to Trapezoids:
You may or may not have wondered while we are doing this how we are going to make strips into a triangle, well it is time to solve the mystery. It is really much more simple than you might be thinking. We are just going to take a 45o angle from each side. Easy, right? Here.we.go…Oh yeah, if you don’t remember a trapezoid is a shape with 4 sides where at least two of the sides run parallel.
Here they are all laid out on my work surface wall.
When I did this, I took a step back and thought “oh man, I do not like that.” So, instead of pushing on with the fabric I chose I went to plan B. I decided to use some of the backing fabric for the ‘white on white’. There is no rule that it actually has to be white. Here it is with the new triangles.
See what a difference that makes? I don’t know about you, but now I am in love with this quilt. Sometimes you have to make changes mid-stream and that is okay. Needless to say I will be making another trip to Holly’s Quilt Cabin for my binding, but at least I am working on something I am proud of now.
Remember that these projects should be fun and stress free! Have a great day!
Until we meet again,
Oh and since my batting wall has been up Baxter hasn’t been meddling as much. So here is just a shot of him lounging to remind you of what he looks like. (don’t worry he is still attacking thread as I throw it in the garbage.)
Step 3: Originally Posted on December 29, 2013
Tell me, how do you like the new theme? The old one was very limiting and frankly not conducive to what I am trying to accomplish. Love it? Hate it? Leave me a comment and let me know. It has also been brought to my attention that a few of my links don’t work. I am trying my hardest to get them up and running again. Unfortunately some of the sites (one in particular) does not like to keep ‘search’ links alive so they show up as a 404 error. If you see any let me know and I will either remove them to avoid annoyance or find a different route.
Alright, housekeeping complete…ready to assemble the front?
Lay a triangle on your ironing board and turn your iron on. (I’m assuming since you are getting ready to quilt that you did that a few minutes ago, but always good to make sure it is heating up.) Double check to make sure right sides are facing up. It should look like a tree with about a 1/4” overhang on each side.
Next fold the pieces in half vertically. It is important to make sure they are even. At this time they do not need to match up with their counterparts.
Why are we doing this? We are pressing these because it is the easiest and fastest way I have found to find the center of each individual piece. This way they line up perfectly without measuring every one.
You can do this multiple ways, but I will usually just trim with my scissors. If you need/want a true edge then you can use your rotary cutter as well. After you have trimmed press the seams away from the white on white or border fabric.
Here is the finished block. Believe it or not that is the hardest part of this quilt. Just 11 more to go…
…then we can assemble the top!
TOP ASSEMBLY –
The easiest way to assemble this top is in sections. I chose to work top right to bottom leaving the corner triangles for last. It is important to line up the triangle top point with the base of the block. Since the top point faces in all the way around you will want to make sure it creates a straight line. We will be trimming the ‘dog ears’ off of the other edge so it will be straight all around. If you don’t line up the top point there will not be an easy trimming point and will ultimately create problems in the end.
I made sure to only work on one block at a time so I didn’t mess up the order of blocks. Just remember that you should always be connecting one block with 5 seams to a single side without seams like below.
I prefer to press as I go so it crisp when I finish a row. Once the row is complete you can trim the ‘dog ears’.
Once all of your rows are complete it is time to put them together. After you stitch the corner solid triangle to the top row you can start tackling the big rows in sections. Use the same method as creating the pieced triangles to center the solid triangle on the block for the first row.
Side Note: I love how this looks like an envelope!
With the solid triangle attached to row 1 you can assemble the rest of the front. As I mentioned it is easier to tackle in sections. With that said, you will want to assemble rows 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, 5 & 6 and so on. Now that those are complete you can put 1-2, with 3-4, etc. This allows you to assemble in manageable pieces and avoid having a heavy piece of fabric you trying to navigate while stitching a straight line.
It is essential to make sure your square seams match. Because of this you will want to pin the seams per the below prior to stitching. If you are comfortable with your stitching and machine that is all you will have to pin, but like I always say pin to your comfort level…no one one is going to know. Plus, if you are comfortable with it and do a good job the first time there is less chance you will have to rip it out later.
I started with lining up the square seams and let the triangle over lap fall where it did. Ideally it will be ~1/4” over to allow for a trimmed seam allowance. As you can see Baxter decided that he needed to help with this step. After shooing him 6-7 times, I gave up.
I don’t know about you, but one of the most satisfying moments of any quilt top assembly is when I stitch a row together and then open it up to see how my seams match. It is almost as good as opening a birthday or Christmas gift! Nothing but smiles here!
That’s it for the front! Remember diagonals, match your seams, and trim the ‘dog ears’. Oh and this should be fun! Next week we’ll assemble the back, spray and pin for quilting. Have a fantastic week! Talk to you again on Wednesday!
Step 4: Originally Posted January 5, 2014
Happy Snowy Sunday from Colorado! With the snow and cold temps this weekend all I have wanted to do is nest. I have been deep cleaning and of course, quilting. Are you ready to finish up this quilt? Me too! Once I package and send this quilt I can finally let my dad read my blog. Only one more week of the Supernova.
These final two posts may be shorter than most because this process is just like the process we went through for the Paradigm Shift Quilt. Instead of re-inventing the wheel I will simply direct you to those posts. Hopefully someday soon when I get a little free time (I know hilarious, right?) I will create tutorials based on specific items that are not project related such as, spray basting, ‘stitch in the ditch quilting’, and binding. Until then hopefully this will do.
Let’s get started shall we?
BACKING & SPRAY BASTING
First things first we need to make sure our backing is pressed and stitched. Start by pressing your backing fabric and squaring it off prior to cutting. I cut mine in half along the natural fabric fold and then lined up the selvages. Once I did that I trimmed up the edges from there. It seemed like the easiest process for me not to mention the most manageable when dealing with that much fabric. If you need to piece your backing (which is necessary unless you bought 60” wide fabric), make sure you are stitching right sides together.
There are two options when piecing your backing fabric. You can have a vertical seam or a horizontal seam. The way I pieced mine a horizontal seam was the easiest….wait a sec…I just realized something. My quilt is square so it doesn’t matter. Oh man, blonde strikes again! Well anyway, you get the idea.
Here is a photo of my fabric laid out on the floor ready for batting.
Before I laid the batting down I double checked to make sure that the backing was larger than the front. Mine is going to be a little tight, but I will make it work. Usually I like to have at least 2-3” all the way around the quilt front.
Once we know that the back is bigger than the front we can lay out the batting. Here is the batting I used for this quilt. I usually try to stock-pile batting by purchasing multiple quantities when they are 40-60% off at JoAnn Fabrics. This means I always have some on hand for impromptu projects and ensure that I am not breaking my budget per quilt.
The next step is to lay out your batting and trim slightly larger than the backing piece. I go slightly larger than the backing so if there is any tightness resulting from the quilting there won’t be a gap.
As you can see getting Baxter off of the batting was an impossible task which is why you get a shot with him in it. In fact he ended up getting locked out of the room completely. Here’s how it went down. Baxter attacked the batting while I was laying it out. Baxter pounced on the scissors while I was cutting the batting to size. (talk about a mini heart attack!).
After I got the batting trimmed I left the room to change the laundry. While I was out, Baxter proceeded to dis-assemble the batting into his own shape of choosing. After all was said he decided his best defense was to look cute and play dead. Needless to say the next moment is when he was locked out. Not only for ease of spraying, but for safety with the chemicals.
Okay here we go; time to spray! If this is your first quilt with me please refer to the following post for a tutorial on how to spray baste your quilt. Otherwise, you know the drill; always spray the batting and not the fabric and be generous. Here are a few photos from the Supernova’s process. I did find that this time I used more spray and it stuck super fast so it was a little challenging to smooth out pieces.
One tip: Make sure you double check both the front and the back to ensure that there are no bubbles or wrinkles in the fabric before beginning to pin.
PINNING FOR QUILTING
Step 5: Originally Posted January 12, 2014
Once you have basted your quilt it is time to pin. I plan on stitching in the ditch again on this one. That is my preferred method for at home quilting simply because I do not have a large arm sewing machine. I am going to stitch diagonal from the triangles. What this means is that I will need to pin in the center of the block to avoid having to remove safety pins while quilting. Here is a shot showing how I have pinned this one.
Happy Basting & Happy Pinning! Next week we will be quilting and binding. If you feel comfortable cutting out your 2 1/2” binding strips before next week please feel free to do so! (Here’s a tutorial)
Have a great week! See you Wednesday!
Happy Sunday to You!
Today we are going to wrap up the quilting and binding of the Supernova quilt. Instead of going through the full ‘how to’ on this quilt I thought I would direct you to the quilting and binding tutorials from the Paradigm Shift quilt for the step by step process. For this quilt I want to reiterate some of the tips and tricks to quilting and binding.
Things to remember when quilting:
- When you are stitching in the ditch you will want to remember to increase your stitch width on your sewing machine. On my particular machine I will increase the stitch length from 3 to 3.5.
- Likewise, keep your feed between your presser foot and your hands guiding steady. Too fast or too slow will increase and decrease stitch length. This will ultimately lead to un-even quilting.
Here is a photo of the front and back of the quilt once the quilting process was complete. As you can see I chose a simple grid pattern for this lap quilt. Ultimately I wanted to highlight the blocks and not take away from them.
Things to remember when binding:
- When binding remember to have a good 2-3’ of extra fabric if your measurements are askew.
- I also like to wind mine up on an old ribbon spool which makes for easier assembly along the way.
- It is okay to go slow. You want to have a straight binding with even lines. Take your time.
Yea! We are done with the Supernova! I hope you enjoyed this quilt as much as I did. As will all of my quilts I thoroughly enjoy the process, but am excited and relieved when they are complete. All I need to do now is wrap it up and ship it to my dad for his birthday on the 21st. Deadline = met…whew!
What’s up next? Jenny’s baby quilt! Check back next Sunday for the reveal!
Have a great rest of your weekend and just because it is the playoffs and I live in Denver….GO BRONCOS!