Christmas Delivery!

Well hello there!  It’s been awhile, my apologies, I’ve been moving across the country….but…I’m excited to be back and have a ton of new ideas and a new creative space to break in! (maybe I’ll do a new studio tour when everything is put away and pretty…because we know that won’t last long!)  Today I’m happy to announce a new super quick quilt pattern using Christmas Delivery by Carta Bella for Riley Blake Designs.

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Quilting from ‘Square’ one – Disappearing 9-Patch – Week 1 – 1/4″, the dark side and straight lines…

Hi Everyone & welcome to WEEK 1 of Quilting from ‘Square’ One-

Are you more nervous or excited or an eclectic combination of both!?!  Well, don’t be nervous….this is fun stuff!  Here’s how we’re going to break down this crazy hobby called quilting.  This week we will be going to go over basic items like machine basics, the right and wrong side of fabric, why an accurate 1/4″ is important and how you’ll be sewing together your first block set.  You can watch the video snip-its for information as well as follow along with the written instructions.

Please reach out if you are lost or would like to as a question.  I’m here to help!

Machine Basics: Make sure you have 2 wound bobbins of a ‘mostly’ matching thread color. Most people use white or black. Since most of our kits have white center blocks you’ll want to use white thread.  Coats & Clark is a basic beginner brand that is affordable and an all around easy every day thread.

If you are new to your machine or haven’t used it in awhile I highly suggest running a few test stitches through your machine before getting started.  This will help you feel more comfortable when you start on your real blocks and will allow you to adjust any tension issues you may run into.  Since everyone probably has a different machine I will direct you to you individual machine manual should you have mechanical issues.

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Modified ‘Doe a Deer’

Happy first Sunday of the 2016 NFL Season!  While many of us enjoy watching football with our friends, hubs, etc. sometimes it is nice to retreat to the studio on Sunday for some ‘me’ time.  Today I am working on finishing up my next blog post, but in the meantime here is one I’ve been meaning to share with y’all for some time.

A colleague’s wife commissioned a baby quilt for one of her best friends.  The timing wasn’t great as I was still in the middle of that nasty hail storm remodel and my studio was in complete shambles.  So, naturally I said “Yes of course I’ll make you a quilt.”  (It’s what we all do, right?)

The nursery colors are teal and coral which is a pretty tough combination I discovered, but luckily Woodland Springs by Designs by Dani for Riley Blake came through and worked perfectly.

Woodland Springs Quilting Fabric

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Quillow Wool Stadium Blanket

Wool Blog Tour-02

Quillow Wool Stadium Blanket –

Hi Everyone! I don’t know about you, but it’s definitely baseball season here in North Texas.  With Spring sports comes unpredictable weather and the need for layers and even a stadium blanket.  What’s great about wool is that it will keep you warm in the cool and cool in the warm making this quillow wool stadium blanket perfect for any Spring outing.  Lucky for us Penny Rose Fabrics now carries 10″ precut wool squares perfect for this blanket.  This is a fast one so what do you say, let’s get started!

Materials Needed – - Wool 24

  • 3 – 10” Wool Stackers from Penny Rose Fabrics or 16 – 10” Wool Squares
  • 1 Yard Backing Fabric – I chose menswear check gray
  • 1/3 Yard Binding Fabric
  • ~ ½ Yard Fabric for back pillow (I used the same fabric as the backing)
  • 1 Yard Batting (I like Warm & Natural)
  • Quilting Pantry Items
    • Sewing Machine
    • Heavy duty thread (makes going through the wool easier and makes the stitches more secure)
    • Tailor Ham or Seam Roll (Optional)
    • Rotary Cutter
    • Rotary Mat
    • Rotary Ruler
    • Iron (w/ Steam)
    • Ironing Board
    • Fabric Scissors

Step 1: We won’t be able to use my favorite method for half square triangles for this (pressing in half and stitching on each side) because not all of the ½ squares have perfect matches. Instead, for this quilt we will be cutting all of the squares in half diagonally. Make sure you line your ruler up corner to corner. Also, make sure your squares are a true 10”x 10” before starting. The square can be off just a bit due to the organic stretching quality of the wool. - Wool 23 - Wool 15 - Wool 14

Step 2: Arrange your half triangles to create the large star pattern. If you are using your own wool the sky is the limit regarding your color choices. I’m using the 10” stacker, which gave me a variety of different wool colors to work with. As you know if you’ve followed me for awhile I like to sketch out my quilts first.  Here is my final layout: - Wool 18

Step 3: Stitch your blocks together. Pair your right triangles and stitch along the hypotenuse (Alert! Yes, we do use geometry as adults! You should tell your children immediately!) using a ¼” seam. - Wool 11 - Wool 10 - Wool 9

Step 4: Press your seams to the dark side. - Wool 3 - Wool 2

With wool it is important to remember a few things. You will want to use a tailor ham or seam roll so that the backside of the seam doesn’t show through to the front. - Wool 25

I found in this application I really didn’t need the ham as my wool was thick enough not to show through but it is something to remember if you ever decide to make a coat. (quick pause for me to reminisce about my Make it Yourself with Wool days, ahh)    Also, make sure you press with HIGH steam or using a damp washcloth over the wool. This will help set your seams and give you the crisp look you are used to when using cotton.

Step 5: Trim the dog ears of the squares. - Wool 7


Then, once your half square triangles are all completed sew your rows together.

Step 6: It’s time to make the quillow portion of the stadium blanket. Measure and cut two 18” squares out of the fabric you would like to use for the pillow portion.   I cut mine on the fold to avoid a seam, but that is entirely up to you.

Step 7: Placing right sides together sew using a ¼” seam ¾ of the way around the pillow. Or in my case, the two seams adjacent to the fold. Yes, I decided to double stitch…my mom still has my serger in Montana (hint hint..Mom…) - Wool 29

Step 8: Set seams and turnout. Press.

Step 9: Top stitch as close to the edge of the top of the pillow. This will be the side directly OPPOSITE of the opening. - Wool 17

Step 10: Layout your backing fabric with your quilt creating a straight edge at the bottom of your quilt. Pin your ‘pillow’ portion to the bottom middle of the backing. - Wool 27

Step 11: Top stitch the two sides to the backing fabric. Don’t worry we’ll catch the bottom during binding. - Wool 26

Step 12: Spray baste and pin your quilt.

Step 13: Quilt away my friends, just make sure to avoid quilting over the pocket on the back.

Step 14: Time for binding! I wanted this quilt to be earthy and a little rustic so I opted to use the plaid backing which gives the front a little dimension.

Step 15: You’re done, but let’s fold it into the pillow! If you are a child or a parent with a child from the 80’s you may remember Popples? It is a similar concept to that.  Start by tri-folding your blanket so the pillow pocket is on the outside bottom. Then, fold the tri-fold down to the pocket. The final step is to turn the pocket inside out over your blanket. Voila! Now you have a pillow/blanket combo allowing you to easily store the blanket in your car. - Wool 16 - Wool 30 - Title Final

Thank you all so much for visiting and checking out my blog on the Penny Rose Wool Love Blog Tour; I really appreciate it. If you like what you’ve seen don’t forget to subscribe at the top of this page. I have more great tutorials coming! Also, don’t forget to check out all of the other fantastic posts on this tour!

March 14 – Mdm Samm of Sew We Stitch

March 15 – Cori Blunt of Creativity Amongst Chaos

March 16 – Deonn Stott of Quiltscapes

March 17 – Darci Schipnewski of Pastthyme Blog

March 18 – Crystal Delaney of The Clever Quilt Studio

March 21 – Carol Swift of Just Let Me Quilt

March 22 – Amy Smart of Diary of a Quilter

March 23 – Penny Rose Blog

March 24 – Riley Blake Designs Blog

March 25 – liZ Evans of Simple Simon and Company

March 28 – Remona Gopaul of The Stitching Scientist

March 29 – Sachiko Aldous of Tea Rose Home

Until next time, Happy Quilting!


Disappearing 9-Patch – It’s a hoot!

I hope y’all (yes I’m embracing the y’all here in TX) are having a great weekend with your friends and family.  Speaking of friends & family, today’s quilt was for a new little addition to one of my oldest and dearest friend’s family.  Hopefully little Emma likes this disappearing 9-patch as much as I do!  I know y’all will love it as this could not be any easier to whip up on a Sunday. Let’s get started!

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No-Stress Window Pane Quilt

Hello my fellow quilters!

Greetings from North Texas! The move is done; well phase 1, I still need to move into the house I’m under contract with, but guess what? I have a new tutorial for you; I hope you like it.  I’m calling it the ‘No-Stress Window Pane Quilt’. You may have also heard it called the Garden Gate or Garden Fence as well.   What do you say, ready to get started? Let’s go!

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Quick Batik Jelly Roll Quilt – Modified Plus

Hi Everyone!

 It has been forever, right? I know, I’m sorry.  See, no one told me when I decided to start this blog a little over a year ago that I would be cheating on it with summer.  There was just too much going on and if there is sunshine, well, I need to be outside!

In addition to running, biking and paddle boarding I was commissioned to create two batik style quilts and so the Falling Charms quilt had to take a back seat for paying gigs.  My apologies, but guess what? I have the first of the two batik quilts ready to show you as a kind of peace-offering for neglecting you all so much this summer?

While I know that we need to finish up the Falling Charms quilt (trust me…it is coming very soon) I wanted to show you the two quilts that I did as contracts over the summer.  One was for my Uncle Steve and one was a service swap for an exterminator. Have I mentioned that my house was built in the early 70s and has some ‘quirks’?  Well anyway both of the clients liked batiks so I figured I would show you them in a couple of posts.  First up the quilt for my Uncle.

I am going to call this the Batik Plus quilt, get it? 😉 You are going to be amazed at how easy this quilt is! Here’s the finished product; ready to get started? Let’s Go!

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Disappearing 4-Patch!

First off, I must say a Happy Happy Birthday to my younger and only brother and only sibling for that matter.  We are 19 months apart almost to the day (technically 19 months and 5 days apart).  Today then begins the 6 months out of the year when his age is exactly 1 year below mine.  Happy 31st DJ, you are the best brother a girl could have!


Alrighty down to business who is ready for our next project? I know I am!  I’ve listed the materials below; let’s do this!

Disappearing 4-patch featuring Dori by Mitzi Powers for Benartex

Disappearing 4-patch


  • 2 Printed Charm Packs
  • 2 Solid Charm Packs
    • Keep in mind white or black will have the most impact.
  • Border Fabric (optional)
  • Backing Fabric
  • Binding Fabric
    • I prefer backing and binding fabric that matches


1) Layout all of your blocks.

Whether you choose to use the Dori charm pack or a different print you should have two printed charm packs and two solid charm packs.  Taking the printed charm pack lay out all of your squares keeping in mind that they will be a 4-patch later.  Notice that I didn’t lay out any of the the white charm pack.  That is a step that isn’t necessary since every other square will be solid.

Disappearing 4-patch

I decided that I didn’t want to go super random on this quilt.  I like the idea of having similar prints together, but not matching.  It will give it dimension without turning into a hot mess.  We’ve all seen them right? The girls that had a great style going, but added that one accessory that took it from cool to ‘oh honey!’.  That is what I am trying to avoid here.  There is such a thing as too random.  Anyway, I digress. Note, these are just for initial block lay out; no need to decide where the final blocks need to go yet.

Yes, you caught me…I did a couple of the blocks ahead of schedule, but hey I really wanted to see what they looked like!

Take your photo! Time to get sewing…

2) Chain stitching 2×2.

I found it easiest to lay out both charm packs and just chain stitch them together. Honestly you can skip step 1 if you don’t want to match them up yet as you can do it after these are completed as well.  I just love seeing all of the fabrics laid out before I begin.  As always we are using a 1/4” seam (per your individual machine’s specifications).  This step goes pretty quickly even though you have ~80 pairs to get together.

Disappearing 4-patch

3) Step 3 – Setting & Pressing.

Time to set your seams and press.  Make sure you are always pressing away from the solid fabric.  This will allow us to ‘nest’ the seams and will almost always ensure a perfectly matched block. Nifty right? I fell in love with this tip when I learned it too!

Disappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patch

4) Step 4 – Matching Seams & Completing the Basic 4-Patch

Once you have all of your seams pressed you will want to consult your photo or lay out all of your blocks on your work surface wall, carpet, spare bed…you know the drill.  (here’s just a few…)

Disappearing 4-patch

Then, gather them all up in corresponding tops and bottoms. I made one pile of tops and one pile of bottoms like the photo below.  You should be able to pull one top and one bottom from each pile, match them and stitch.

Disappearing 4-patch

You guessed it, we are going to chain stitch these as well. The beauty of pressing to the dark side above means that in this particular 4-patch we are able to ‘nest’ out seams. What this allows you to do is match your 4-patch centers with little to no effort.  All you need to do is nest the seams  by rubbing them together and they will settle into their natural place which also happens to be where the seams line up perfectly.  Just remember to stitch the correct side.  You will read in the outtake below that it is easy to stitch the wrong side and then things get a little off kilter if you know what I mean.

Disappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patch

Alright, we are down to sewing 40 blocks.  Let’s meet back here next week (sorry for the couple week hiatus, back on track now) to cut and assemble the final blocks. Exciting! Check out the center matching using ‘nesting’, ah perfection! One thing to note when pressing.  Usually you would split the center seam and press both to their consecutive dark side, but since we will be cutting this block up and moving pieces around just choose the darker of the two printed squares and press to that side. (it will make more sense next week)

Disappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patch

Oh! Before I forget;  I have been working on something really great that I think will take this blog to the next level (also another reason why you haven’t seen a post in a week or so). Stay tuned! I can’t wait to reveal it…hopefully next week & hopefully you like it!


I thought I would show you that, yes, I have to rip out too. I started pressing some of my blocks and realized something was off. You see I was trying to line up straight edges and lost the block integrity.  I think those vines are supposed to run up and down?! I had to not only take out 1, but 10 different blocks, but it didn’t take too long. Winking smile

Disappearing 4-patchDisappearing 4-patch

Have a great week!

Step 2 F/ Not My Grandma’s Quilts – Originally Posted on March 30th, 2014 (Condensing for the Studio and to make it easier for you all to find and follow):

Happy Day Fellow Quilters!

It is gorgeous here in Denver and I can’t wait to show you what I have been working on.  Without further ado I would like to introduce you to ‘Seam to Seam’!  What is ‘Seam to Seam’? They are short (~2 minute) videos showing each step along the way.  This way you can watch the next step, complete it and move on to the next set of instructions without having to rewind and find your place in a tutorial to see something over again.

Photos and written instructions will still be there to help so if you don’t want to watch the videos you don’t have to.  Feel free to let me know what you think.

Let’s get started, today we are creating the final block.  This is the first of two big TA-DA moments for this quilt; I’m excited to show you!


1) Cutting the four patch

Time to get cutting. First things first you will want to get your cutting mat and a ruler that is larger than the block and can measure in 1” increments. Oh, you need your rotary cutter too! Next, line up your square so it is aligned on the cutting mat.

Helpful Hint: A rotating cutting mat will make this process 100% easier.  If you don’t have one you can walk around your table or move your big mat very (and I mean very) gingerly.  DO NOT MOVE THE BLOCK.


Now align your ruler at the 1” mark along the center of your block.  Use your rotary cutter and cut all the way through the block.


Carefully pick up your ruler, rotate the mat and line it up again.


Same process as before. Align 1”, cut and rotate.  You will want to do this all the way around the block; 4 cuts total.

2) Arranging the four patch

Now it is time to rotate the cut pieces of the block.  It should go solid, printed, solid printed all the way around.  Just flip the center pieces around.  The easiest way to look at it is the before & after below.



3) Sewing the block back together – Rows

We are going to work in rows when assembling this block.  It is very important to have you seam allowances accurate because we will be matching ~ 8 seams per block.  Yes, this block is a little more labor intensive than some of these others we’ve tackled, but we have already saved ourselves a ton of work just by cutting the four patch.  Wow, can you imagine cutting and sewing all of the little squares; talk about exponential room for error!   (…sorry for the ‘perfectly’ overuse…that word is officially off limits Smile)

Here is how to put the first row together. This may seem a little unorthodox, but we want to press to one side for this top row. I know, I know some may not be to the dark side, but trust me it will be worth it in the end. Lets press them all towards the large patterned block like shown in the photo below. Sew the next row the same way, EXCEPT you will press the opposite way.  In this example below you will press towards the teal strip.  Okay final row same as the first, but press towards the large white block this time.


4) Sewing the block together – Final Assembly

Let’s match up some seams shall we? I think you know where this is going. Attach the top row to the middle and the middle to the bottom.  Do you see why we pressed our seams the way we did? Yep, this way we can nest and life will be so much easier.  Feel free to pin if you’d like or try it with just the nesting if you feel like you are becoming one with your machine.


5) Finished Block

Voila! Here is your finished block.  Let’s meet back next week and we can work on layout of this fantastic quilt.  In the mean time I have a ton of blocks to cut and assemble…and you do too! Smile


Step 3:F/ Not My Grandma’s Quilts – Originally Posted on May 5th, 2014 (Condensing for the Studio and to make it easier for you all to find and follow):

Hey Everyone!

We have finally reached front assembly day! Now that all of the front blocks are done it is time to choose a layout.  The disappearing 4-patch gives us a lot of different options.  Here are my two finalists:

Option 1: Option 1

Option 2:Option 2

Can you see how just re-arranging the blocks can give the entire quilt?  I like both of them, but some of the fabric works better vertical rather than horizontal.  I have also been practicing my free-motion quilting and really want to try something small on this quilt.  I’m thinking I may place flowers in the white squares.  We’ll see I don’t know; so nervous to dive in to that new technique!  With that said, choosing the second option seemed like the better one to go with; there will be less white space to fill up throughout the quilt.

Okay, you know what’s next; work in rows and stitch all of the blocks together matching seams.  For this application I am definitely pinning. While I am waiting for the border, backing and binding fabric to be back in stock I thought that it would be best to move on to our next project. I mean the real fun is seeing how the fronts are put together anyway, right? Right!

If you have the front together and want to add borders I encourage you to check out my Jelly Roll Race Baby Quilt tutorial (Part 2).  If you are ready for batting, pinning, quilting and binding please check out my Paradigm Shift tutorials (steps 6, 7 & 8).  In fact, I may just copy them and move them to a special section on the basics.

Update 10/10/15 – Here’s the final quilt in all its glory!

Final Disappearing 4-Patch

Are you ready to see what is up next?

Here you go!

I’ve decided to switch the schedule up a bit.  If you have been following the tutorial schedule and were looking forward to the five and dime quilt next please let me know and I will see what I can do.  But when I looked at that pattern I realized that it will be similar to the disappearing 4-patch and wanted to work on something completely different. Can you guess which project is moving to the top?

Anyone up for a little Op Art Reflections? Yes! We are going to complete a falling charms quilt.  Here’s what you’ll need for next week!

  • What’s Needed?
    • 1 Black or Solid Roll Up (Jelly Roll)
      • 2 1/2″ wide strips
    • 4 Charm Packs
    • Border Fabric (optional)
    • Backing Fabric
    • Binding Fabric
    • Opart

I can’t wait to get started! Don’t worry, I will finish up the disappearing 4-patch soon enough.  I made a rule when starting this that each quilt needs to be finished before starting the next one. I’m bending the rules a bit, but Dori will be completed before Op Art….trust me! Winking smile

Until next week, go out and bask in the sunshine! (seriously, it’s gorgeous here in Denver…probably why my posts have been a bit scattered…please accept my apologies.)

Oh and shh, but I have a really fun ‘on the side’ tutorial coming up. Check back on Wednesday for that post! (Hint get 2 mini-charm packs and a fat quarter ready!)





Jelly Roll Race

Hello Fellow Quilters!

Now that the My Sunshine quilt is completed are you ready to move on to our next project? Pay attention this one goes fast!

There is a fun trend out there called Jelly Roll Racing. What is it? Well, it is a way to create a quilt front in less than an hour.  The basic idea is that you will open a jelly roll and then just sew all the strips together.  This is what Roxy’s first quilt will be, but more on that in a bit.

While this quilt is fairly simple it can get confusing if you skip a step.  Have your jelly roll handy? Let’s get started!

What are we using? Life in the Jungle by Doohikey Designs for Riley Blake!

Life in the Jungle

Step 1:  Sew the Jelly Roll Together –

Simply sew one strip to the next. Don’t worry about the order of the strips it will make sense as we go. Just take the top one and work your way to the bottom.   The method for stitching these together is exactly the same way we connect binding strips.  Place the right sides together and stitch at a 45 degree angle. Make sure the small ends are facing to the right as we will be trimming these next.  Alright time to stitch!

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

The idea is to chain stitch the bottom of one strip to the top of the next one.

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! ( in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

Yes, you will have a lot of strips! Please excuse all the fuzzies.  I would recommend a lint roller as well. I know we made good use out of it.

Step 2: Trim and Press –

Now that all of your strips are sewn together we need to trim them apart and cut the very large ‘dog ears’. Once you do this you should have one long ‘binding’ strip of fabric.

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

I know Baxter enjoyed the ‘dog ear’ confetti party.

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

Here is how the strip should look once they are pressed.

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

Step 4: Race Away, Connecting the Strip Together –

Pick one end and trim 18” or so.  If you don’t do this all the angled seams will start to line up and it will not give you the variegated look desired.  With right sides together you are going to sew the two ends of the strips together. Careful not to get any twists.  Once you reach the end, (don’t panic, this is going to take a while) you will need to trim the loop part to create two flat ends.  (See Roxy’s photos below for an example. Now, don’t get all up in arms the photo was purely for show. We laid it out and used a rotary cutter to make sure the edges were straight. Smile)

Then, guess what? Yes, put the right sides together from the trimmed end and the other end you started and start sewing again!  Note: YOU ARE MATCHING SHORT END TO SHORT END AND STITCHING LENGTHWISE. Don’t make a long tube, one side should always be open.

With each round you will repeat the trim and the ends together until you have your desired width of quilt.  Each time gets half as long so the strips get shorter and shorter.  Here is a rough video to show you:


You may want to wind a few bobbins ahead of time and watch every so often to make sure that you haven’t ran out of thread.  It will happen my friends, just you wait.

After you have hit the desired width (the one below is ~48×60)you want you can proceed to spraying, pinning, quilting and binding or you can add a border, etc.  It is completely up to you.  But, let’s just take a moment shall we?! I mean how easy is this?! You don’t even have to decide how to arrange the fabric.

Life in the Jungle–Jelly Roll Race! (

Now, I am making mine into a baby quilt for my dear friend Audra who got to say hello to her super healthy baby 3 weeks early!  As you can see time is of the essence, but this quilt is too big for an everyday baby quilt.

After much deliberation with Roxy we decided that I could make three out of this one quilt, but how?!  That, my friends, is next week’s post, but until then I will leave you with Roxy’s first ever quilting experience in slide show form!  Seriously, how awesome is she! High-five first timer!

We almost did this entire quilt in a day too! (with only 1 or 2 sweat shop references…Winking smile)

Until next week my friends! Have fun quilting!


Step 2: Originally Posted on 3/10/2014:

When we last spoke I had just finished the Jelly Roll Race Quilt front. I mentioned that I was making this quilt for my friend Audra’s new baby boy, Reece. Well the quilt front we finished was quite large. My intention was not for a twin sized quilt, but rather for a play date throw-down in the grass rough and tumble quilt.

With that said I decided to break up the Jelly Roll Race quilt into three sections. Deciding on the first two was easy, but how to make the third took a little deliberation. That’s when after much discussion with Roxy I decided to continue the race one more time through the machine.  Let me just tell you, that was one long quilt front!

At this point all I needed to do was to decide where to ‘rip’ out the seams to create three quilt fronts. This came down to some pretty easy math; add up the strips and divide by three!

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

Now that I have the three fronts it became apparent that I would need sashing and a border to set off the ‘race’ as well as make it the final desired size. I knew that it would need something going in since the width was only 2ft and I needed more than that for a baby quilt. Before adding the sashing and borders it was necessary to ‘square’ up the quilt fronts to make them true and even.

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

I chose a white on white and a white on green polka dot fabric. Using the same concepts as the My Sunshine Quilt I cut the white on white into 2 ½” strips and the green into 4 ½” strips. In the end they will be 2” and 4” after the 2- ¼” seam allowances. In the same manner as the My Sunshine Quilt you will stitch the sides and trim the strips down and then stitch the top and trim the strips down. Remember to trim your edges and salvages so you are working with straight edges.

In the photo below you can see where I stitch off the edge of the bottom of the quilt. After you complete the stitching you will want to trim the edges down. This takes the guess work out of measuring your sashing and give you a perfect finish every time!

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

Here is the quilt front with the completed sashing. Starting to take shape!

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

Ta da! The final quilt front with the green dot border! Don’t you think it frames the ‘race’ nicely?

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

In this process I discovered Sulky thread for quilting. Man do I love it! You have to be careful with threading and tension, but it makes quilting go so much more smoothly than before. I chose to quilt the borders and then every third Jelly Strip row.

On a side note, it took a bit for me to get the tension correct on the Sulky thread. Translation…I had to rip out quite a bit.  Well, look who was more than eager to help.  Needless to say he is yet again in the hinder category.

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

Time to bind and these quilts are done! Look for them on my Etsy shop soon!

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!


Next Up…disappearing 4-patch with Dori! Here’s a sneak peak!

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

Jelly Roll Race – Part 2 – When 1 becomes 3!

Happy Quilting! Let’s chat again soon!


5 Stripe Basket Weave Quilt (aka Supernova!)

Well Hello Everyone!  Are you ready to get this next quilt started? I know I am. I opened up the Bali Pop and could not be more excited to get started. My dad is going to love this….and by love this I mean best daughter of the year award is on lock (side note: I win every year since I am his only daughter, but still…)

Today we will be going over layout and assembly of the rows for the Supernova quilt.  I think this will go up super fast, but will dazzle anyone who isn’t a quilter (that’s exactly what we all like to do, isn’t it?) Let’s put my batting wall to work; what do you say?

Here’s what you will need for today:

  • Bali Pop, Jelly Roll or 30 – 42 x 2 1/2” strips of Fabric
  • Thread
  • Pinking Shears
  • Space to layout

Don’t panic. We will be going over the cutting out of the triangles in a separate post. Today I want to focus on the block assembly and then we will tackle the white fabric and the remaining 10 strips.


Time to lay out all the strips. In order to get the 25 – 10 1/2” blocks we will need 6 sets of 5 rows. The great thing about this wall is that it is Baxter free and I can lay items out, step back and make adjustments. Here’s how I laid mine out (don’t you just love Vine? Don’t judge though, it was my first…ever.) I chose to keep the lighter fabrics of the Pacific Bali Pop out of the quilt at this time. They may or may not show up in the border fabrics, but we’ll see.  (okay so for some reason it won’t embed properly…I’ll keep trying 🙂 )


Now that your rows are laid out in the colors combinations that you want it is time to get assembling. This is super easy. Simply sew the strips together in bunches of 5. Line up the top when you stitch; the bottoms will be uneven, but we will deal with that in a bit. 


Remember 1/4” seam and pink it when done if your fabric is already starting to fray.  I’m using a navy blue thread on this one.  After our Paradigm Shift quilt I am so happy to be able to just use one color again.  The pattern says to make 10 1/2” x 10 1/2” squares so you will want to make sure that you set your seams appropriately. (This just means a good press; Flat and straight) Remember to press towards the darker color.


Measure from the straight edge making sure that your end product will be square.  Use your rotary cutter and cut. You should get at least 4 squares per strip.



Now is the fun part. Let’s lay out how we want the ‘diamonds’ to be. Even without the borders this is looking fantastic! Since I used a Bali Pop that included some really light pieces I chose to amend the center block out of necessity. See by pulling all of those pieces I ended up a block short.  Can you spot the difference? Okay I’m sure you can, but I think it gives it a little unique flair, don’t you? Any guesses what I did? You are correct, I sewed three of the strip remnants together to make one square.


Are you ready to cut out the borders/white on white pieces? Me too! Stay tuned, next Sunday they will be up and ready to go.  

Step 2: Originally Published December 13, 2013 –
Hello There!

I hope you are having a great weekend! I’m not sure why they go so fast, but they do and before I know it I will be fighting traffic again.  Are you ready to cut out the triangles? Well, without further ado let’s go!

One item I will mention before we get started is that you will see a different ‘white on white’ fabric used for the tutorial than the final product.  I will explain this later.  It is a lesson in adapting and not getting locked in to one idea.

From this point forward I will be referring to items as Piece A and Piece B and Piece C and Piece D.  Piece C & D are the triangles which I did not list here because it is pretty clear which ones are the triangles and which are not.


Here is what you will have in the end:

  • Piece A – (6) 5-3/8” Squares (cut in half diagonally for 12 small triangle pieces)
  • Piece B – (12)  11-1/2” x 2-1/2” Strips
  • Piece C – (12) 15-3/8” x 2-1/2” Strips
  • Piece D – (2) 7-7/8” Squares (cut in half diagonally for 4 Corner Triangles)

Step 1 – Cutting out Piece B:

Do you remember when I said I pulled all the light-colored pieces from the Bali Pop?  These pieces are now the middle of our border triangle and will create a white frame.   The first thing you will want to do is to make sure these jelly rolls are true; meaning the ends are square.


Next, cut each of them to 11-1/2” lengthwise (not sure how else you would Smile).  I did the first one solo and then started doubling up fabric as I went which sped up the process immensely.


Step 2 – Cutting out Piece C:

My white on white was cut off of the bolt per the 1 yard requirement in the pattern.  You will want to press the fabric and cut it true before you begin.  Don’t worry we won’t use the full yard. In, fact We might get away with 1/2-3/4 of a yard.  Once true, cut the fabric in 2-1/2” strips. The fabric is 45” wide so 45/11.5 = 3.91… meaning that we can get almost 4 strips out of this one cut. That means we only have to cut 4 rows. Why not just 3 since 4*3= 12 and that’s what we need.  Well as I mentioned we get almost 4 out of the strip so the final piece will be just shy of 11.5” and in quilting it must be exact.


Once you have cut your 4 rows of strips you can cut them into 15-3/8” pieces. I doubled mine up per below.  My general rule is no more than 4-6 per cut when layering and you MUST have a sharp blade.


Step 3 – Cutting out Piece A & Piece D (Triangles):

Repeat the same method used for the 15-3/8” strips, but this time cut them into 5-3/8” squares. Make sure your end are true. You need 6 squares total.

(There is an angle on this shot that will cause it to not look true.  Perhaps I need a helmet camera)
Now, cut out Piece D which are squares that are 7-7/8” x 7-7/8” using the same method as above. You only need 2 of these squares and since your fabric is folded over you only need to cut one time.
Step 4 – Creating the Triangles:
In order to get the triangles we need they have to be cut in half along the diagonal.

Step 5 – Cut Piece B & Piece C in to Trapezoids:

You may or may not have wondered while we are doing this how we are going to make strips into a triangle, well it is time to solve the mystery.  It is really much more simple than you might be thinking. We are just going to take a 45o angle from each side. Easy, right? Here.we.go…Oh yeah, if you don’t remember a trapezoid is a shape with 4 sides where at least two of the sides run parallel. 


Here they are all laid out on my work surface wall.


When I did this, I took a step back and thought “oh man, I do not like that.” So, instead of pushing on with the fabric I chose I went to plan B.  I decided to use some of the backing fabric for the ‘white on white’.  There is no rule that it actually has to be white.  Here it is with the new triangles.


See what a difference that makes? I don’t know about you, but now I am in love with this quilt. Sometimes you have to make changes mid-stream and that is okay.  Needless to say I will be making another trip to Holly’s Quilt Cabin for my binding, but at least I am working on something I am proud of now.

Remember that these projects should be fun and stress free! Have a great day!

Until we meet again,


Oh and since my batting wall has been up Baxter hasn’t been meddling as much. So here is just a shot of him lounging to remind you of what he looks like. (don’t worry he is still attacking thread as I throw it in the garbage.)


Step 3: Originally Posted on December 29, 2013

Tell me, how do you like the new theme?  The old one was very limiting and frankly not conducive to what I am trying to accomplish.  Love it? Hate it? Leave me a comment and let me know.  It has also been brought to my attention that a few of my links don’t work.  I am trying my hardest to get them up and running again. Unfortunately some of the sites (one in particular) does not like to keep ‘search’ links alive so they show up as a 404 error.   If you see any let me know and I will either remove them to avoid annoyance or find a different route.

Alright, housekeeping complete…ready to assemble the front?

Lay a triangle on your ironing board and turn your iron on. (I’m assuming since you are getting ready to quilt that you did that a few minutes ago, but always good to make sure it is heating up.)  Double check to make sure right sides are facing up.  It should look like a tree with about a 1/4” overhang on each side.


Next fold the pieces in half vertically.  It is important to make sure they are even. At this time they do not need to match up with their counterparts.


Now press!


Why are we doing this? We are pressing these because it is the easiest and fastest way I have found to find the center of each individual piece.  This way they line up perfectly without measuring every one.

Pin the white center stripe to the top small triangle through the press line.
Stitch 1/4” seam, then we need to trim the ‘dog ears’.

You can do this multiple ways, but I will usually just trim with my scissors. If you need/want a true edge then you can use your rotary cutter as well.  After you have trimmed press the seams away from the white on white or border fabric.


Here is the finished block.  Believe it or not that is the hardest part of this quilt.  Just 11 more to go…


…then we can assemble the top!


The easiest way to assemble this top is in sections. I chose to work top right to bottom leaving the corner triangles for last.  It is important to line up the triangle top point with the base of the block.  Since the top point faces in all the way around you will want to make sure it creates a straight line.  We will be trimming the ‘dog ears’ off of the other edge so it will be straight all around.  If you don’t line up the top point there will not be an easy trimming point and will ultimately create problems in the end.


I made sure to only work on one block at a time so I didn’t mess up the order of blocks.  Just remember that you should always be connecting one block with 5 seams to a single side without seams like below.
I prefer to press as I go so it crisp when I finish a row. Once the row is complete you can trim the ‘dog ears’.

Once all of your rows are complete it is time to put them together.  After you stitch the corner solid triangle to the top row you can start tackling the big rows in sections.  Use the same method as creating the pieced triangles to center the solid triangle on the block for the first row.


Side Note: I love how this looks like an envelope!

With the solid triangle attached to row 1 you can assemble the rest of the front.  As I mentioned it is easier to tackle in sections.  With that said, you will want to assemble rows 1 & 2, then 3 & 4, 5 & 6 and so on.  Now that those are complete you can put 1-2, with 3-4, etc. This allows you to assemble in manageable pieces and avoid having a heavy piece of fabric you trying to navigate while stitching a straight line.

It is essential to make sure your square seams match. Because of this you will want to pin the seams per the below prior to stitching. If you are comfortable with your stitching and machine that is all you will have to pin, but like I always say pin to your comfort level…no one one is going to know.  Plus, if you are comfortable with it and do a good job the first time there is less chance you will have to rip it out later.


I started with lining up the square seams and let the triangle over lap fall where it did.  Ideally it will be ~1/4” over to allow for a trimmed seam allowance.  As you can see Baxter decided that he needed to help with this step.  After shooing him 6-7 times, I gave up.


I don’t know about you, but one of the most satisfying moments of any quilt top assembly is when I stitch a row together and then open it up to see how my seams match.  It is almost as good as opening a birthday or Christmas gift!  Nothing but smiles here!

That’s it for the front! Remember diagonals, match your seams, and trim the ‘dog ears’.  Oh and this should be fun! Next week we’ll assemble the back, spray and pin for quilting. Have a fantastic week!  Talk to you again on Wednesday!

Happy Quilting!


Step 4: Originally Posted January 5, 2014

Happy Snowy Sunday from Colorado!  With the snow and cold temps this weekend all I have wanted to do is nest.  I have been deep cleaning and of course, quilting.  Are you ready to finish up this quilt? Me too! Once I package and send this quilt I can finally let my dad read my blog. Open-mouthed smile Only one more week of the Supernova.

These final two posts may be shorter than most because this process is just like the process we went through for the Paradigm Shift Quilt.  Instead of re-inventing the wheel I will simply direct you to those posts.  Hopefully someday soon when I get a little free time (I know hilarious, right?) I will create tutorials based on specific items that are not project related such as, spray basting, ‘stitch in the ditch quilting’, and binding.  Until then hopefully this will do.

Let’s get started shall we?


First things first we need to make sure our backing is pressed and stitched.  Start by pressing your backing fabric and squaring it off prior to cutting.   I cut mine in half along the natural fabric fold and then lined up the selvages.  Once I did that I trimmed up the edges from there.  It seemed like the easiest process for me not to mention the most manageable when dealing with that much fabric.  If you need to piece your backing (which is necessary unless you bought 60” wide fabric), make sure you are stitching right sides together.

There are two options when piecing your backing fabric. You can have a vertical seam or a horizontal seam.  The way I pieced mine a horizontal seam was the easiest….wait a sec…I just realized something.  My quilt is square so it doesn’t matter.  Oh man, blonde strikes again!  Well anyway, you get the idea.

Here is a photo of my fabric laid out on the floor ready for batting.

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

Before I laid the batting down I double checked to make sure that the backing was larger than the front.  Mine is going to be a little tight, but I will make it work.  Usually I like to have at least 2-3” all the way around the quilt front.

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

Once we know that the back is bigger than the front we can lay out the batting.  Here is the batting I used for this quilt.  I usually try to stock-pile batting by purchasing multiple quantities when they are 40-60% off at JoAnn Fabrics.  This means I always have some on hand for impromptu projects and ensure that I am not breaking my budget per quilt.

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

The next step is to lay out your batting and trim slightly larger than the backing piece.  I go slightly larger than the backing so if there is any tightness resulting from the quilting there won’t be a gap.

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

As you can see getting Baxter off of the batting was an impossible task which is why you get a shot with him in it.  In fact he ended up getting locked out of the room completely.  Here’s how it went down.  Baxter attacked the batting while I was laying it out. Baxter pounced on the scissors while I was cutting the batting to size. (talk about a mini heart attack!).

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

After I got the batting trimmed I left the room to change the laundry. While I was out, Baxter proceeded to dis-assemble the batting into his own shape of choosing.   After all was said he decided his best defense was to look cute and play dead.  Needless to say the next moment is when he was locked out.  Not only for ease of spraying, but for safety with the chemicals.

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

Okay here we go; time to spray! If this is your first quilt with me please refer to the following post for a tutorial on how to spray baste your quilt.  Otherwise, you know the drill; always spray the batting and not the fabric and be generous.  Here are a few photos from the Supernova’s process.  I did find that this time I used more spray and it stuck super fast so it was a little challenging to smooth out pieces.

Spray Basting Tutorial

Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for QuiltingSupernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for QuiltingSupernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

One tip: Make sure you double check both the front and the back to ensure that there are no bubbles or wrinkles in the fabric before beginning to pin.



Step 5: Originally Posted January 12, 2014

Once you have basted your quilt it is time to pin. I plan on stitching in the ditch again on this one.  That is my preferred method for at home quilting simply because I do not have a large arm sewing machine.  I am going to stitch diagonal from the triangles.  What this means is that I will need to pin in the center of the block to avoid having to remove safety pins while quilting.  Here is a shot showing how I have pinned this one.
Supernova–Step 4–Spray Basting & Pinning for Quilting

Happy Basting & Happy Pinning!  Next week we will be quilting and binding.  If you feel comfortable cutting out your 2 1/2” binding strips before next week please feel free to do so! (Here’s a tutorial)

Have a great week! See you Wednesday!


Step 5:

Happy Sunday to You!

Today we are going to wrap up the quilting and binding of the Supernova quilt.  Instead of going through the full ‘how to’ on this quilt I thought I would direct you to the quilting and binding tutorials from the Paradigm Shift quilt for the step by step process.  For this quilt I want to reiterate some of the tips and tricks to quilting and binding.

Things to remember when quilting:

  • When you are stitching in the ditch you will want to remember to increase your stitch width on your sewing machine.  On my particular machine I will increase the stitch length from 3 to 3.5.stitch in the ditch
  • Likewise, keep your feed between your presser foot and your hands guiding steady. Too fast or too slow will increase and decrease stitch length.  This will ultimately lead to un-even quilting.

Here is a photo of the front and back of the quilt once the quilting process was complete.  As you can see I chose a simple grid pattern for this lap quilt.  Ultimately I wanted to highlight the blocks and not take away from them.


Things to remember when binding:

  • When binding remember to have a good 2-3’ of extra fabric if your measurements are askew.
  • I also like to wind mine up on an old ribbon spool which makes for easier assembly along the way.
  • It is okay to go slow. You want to have a straight binding with even lines.  Take your time.


Yea! We are done with the Supernova!  I hope you enjoyed this quilt as much as I did.  As will all of my quilts I thoroughly enjoy the process, but am excited and relieved when they are complete.  All I need to do now is wrap it up and ship it to my dad for his birthday on the 21st.  Deadline = met…whew!


What’s up next? Jenny’s baby quilt!  Check back next Sunday for the reveal!

Have a great rest of your weekend and just because it is the playoffs and I live in Denver….GO BRONCOS!